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1. Exfoliation: Right or Wrong? - stroll down
2. After Glow - stroll down
3. Physiology of the skin - stroll down
1. Exfoliation: Right or Wrong?
The entire professional skin care industry has grown
dramatically around anti-aging skin care products and treatments.
I also think people would agree that skin has continued to age, despite these well-intentioned efforts. Are we using the right ingredients? Are the ingredients getting to the right places in order to actually have an anti-aging effect?
The aging process
First, take a look at the aging process of the skin. Even though the dermis thins as people get older, the epidermis doesn't, regardless of age or sun exposure. The body is designed to continuously replace epidermal layers because a thinned epidermis could let in infection or result in fluid loss, both of which are life-threatening. The only aspect of the epidermis that is significantly affected by age is its rate of turnover.
The reason for the slowdown is the same reason that the dermis thins-the skin is starving for nutrients and the demand for enzymes, lipids, proteins and antioxidants needed to maintain the skin is higher than the blood supply can provide daily. Remember that the dermis is the sole provider of nutrients for itself and the epidermis and, as people age, the blood supply continues to decrease. With less blood, the amount of these essential nutrients also declines. The barrage of free radicals from diet, stress, sun and environmental toxin exposure overwhelm the skin, depleting the antioxidants and devouring the shrinking supply of nutrients needed to keep the dermis at full thickness and the epidermis at a 30-day cycle. The skin is forced to make a choice between allowing the dermis to thin or allowing the epidermis to thin. The best evidence of this is the aging pattern of dark skin types. You will rarely find a wrinkle on 70-year old African-American nonsmokcrs because their melanin keeps inflammation at a tolerable level that allows the derm is to maintain itself.
Exfoliation
Restoring the epidermal barrier is the No. 1 priority or. the skin because humans cannot survive with a thinned epidermis. Forced exfoliation with alpha hydroxy acids (AH As) and other ingredients result in an emergency message from the epidermis to the derm is requesting immediate assistance. The only way to get replacement cells to the surface quickly is to increase turnover temporarily. This docs not mean the epidermis or dermis are healthier; it just means that emergency measures were put in place to fix the epidermal deficit. Epidermal exfoliation also increases sun sensitivity, allows tor a higher absorption of environmental toxins and dehydrates the skin.
The dermis has a different set of priorities. It also tries to maintain its thickness, but fails under the weight of the huge demands for nutrients and the inability of the dermal blood supply to keep pace. When fewer demands of inflammation are placed on the skin, the dermis handles the load much better, and its thinning is substantially reduced. When inflammatory demands are abnormally high, as in the case of rosacca, the dermis thins even more rapidly, resulting in the increasing number of visible capillaries for rosacca sufferers throughout time. When the dermis thins, the worst case scenario includes sagging skin, broken capillaries and wrinkles. These events are not life-threatening, so the process is allowed to continue. It is reasonable to believe that the starving dermis becomes even more starved every time the epidermis has a new repair demand that takes its needed resources-which begs the question: Is exfoliation helpful?
Exfoliation has been a primary solution for anti-aging tor many years. There is no question that compromising the integrity of the epidermal barrier increases the rate of turnover. After all, the skin is rushing to replace its thickness, and it can only do so by starting at the base and working its way up. Does that mean exfoliation is anti-aging?
Unfortunately it is not. Restoring the thickness and integrity of the barrier and improving the turnover rate have no impact on the dermis, where aging actually occurs. Additionally, the daily demand for new layers of the epidermis puts even more of a strain on the limited nutrient supply, which means something has to give.
Forcing the repair of those epidermal layers at twice the rate the skin has intentionally chosen will utilize scarce nutrients twice as quickly. The loser in all of this is the dermis, because it can-and will-thin faster the more it is starved. Also, remember that exfoliating the epidermis increases photodamage, which will further increase aging.
Peels and penetration
Dermal thinning is a difficult problem because of several factors:
1. The average skin care product has a very small dermal penetration rate, which means most of the anti-aging ingredients never impact the appropriate target.
2. Aggressive treatments, such as trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels and many lasers that get to the dermis are typically traumatic enough to age the skin before any positive result. For example, according to my personal research, one study showed TCA thinned the dermis by 30% in one application-that is 30 years of aging in five minutes. The body usually recovers most of that loss as it heals, but how often does full recovery occur, and should these peels really be called anti-aging, based on this evidence?
If you have ever used a peel on a client who developed telangectasias post-peel, that is a definite sign that their dermis is thinner than when they started. The 2% penetration issue is quite problematic because few ingredients that actually create new layers of collagen rarely get used when they are stuck in the epidermis. Remember that acids typically create new collagen because the new collagen is allocated primarily to the burned areas. There is little evidence to suggest that new collagen formation reverses aging in any way due to glycolic and TCA peels. That means skin care professionals may be aging the skin of clients temporarily, resulting in no net gain.
A new idea
So why do people keep coming back for more? It is a valid question. Does the skin look better with some of these exfoliants? Often times, yes, but that needs further explanation. AH As, retinols and vitamin C are classic examples of ingredients that exfoliate and plump. Exfoliation is often discussed, but plumping isn't. Plumping occurs when 98% of these ingredients sit in the epidermis and cause irritation, resulting in edema, or swelling. Edema makes lines look better. The problem is, the lines are not actually better, and the inflammation starves the skin even more. It you don't use acids or retinols tor one to two weeks, you probably will see the skin deflate to its actual state. You will notice more lines, more laxity and a dullness that is reflective of a skin that has been in survival mode for too long. As soon as you start back on these products, everything looks better almost immediately, which should be your first clue that the plumping isn't new collagen formation. Because these products are epidermal and aging is dermal, it only makes sense that they have not been preventing the skin from aging.
I know that many are upset at the suggestion that what has been done tor so many years is potentially damaging. However, as with any aspect of medicine, things change and it is important for skin care professionals to be open to new ideas.
Lasting effects
The aging process occurs primarily in the dermis. Almost everyone acknowledges that the vast majority of anti-aging treatments have little to no impact on the dermis, so to get visible results, new ways have been created to plump the epidermis. The problem with this strategy is that the plumping usually makes the skin work harder and starve more. Advances in dermal delivery ingredients, such as phosphatidylcholine, make reaching the dermis possible and have the added benefit of restoring the barrier instead of stripping it. In addition, there are a handful of research-proven fibroblast stimulators that do not work through trauma: niacinamide; GHK copper peptides; 1,3 beta glucan; avocatin; chlorella;, retinaldehyde; retinoic acid; R-lipoic acid; and L-ascorbic acid. My goal is to change the focus of skin care from the temporary effects of epidermal plumping to the more lasting effects of dermal remodeling.
2. AFTER GLOW
Think lineless, poreless—dare we say it—flawless skin is impossible?
Not so, say dermatologists. Now, chemical peels may
very well grant you complexion perfection. By Elizabeth Angell
For instant gratification, skin peels rank at least as high as scratch-off lottery tickets and chocolate truffles. In just a few minutes, a chemical peel can do more to fade fine lines and brighten dull skin than months' worth of creams or lotions. No wonder more than half a million chemical peels were performed in doctors' offices in 2007—making the procedure one of the most popular tracked by the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. And that doesn't even take into account the rising number performed by aestheticians and by women in their own bathrooms.
Despite their popularity, peels can still be a scary concept— after all, their primary ingredient is acid. "When I start to talk about chemical peels, women immediately think of that Sex and the City episode when Samantha gets a peel and she looks so red and raw," says Francesca Fusco, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City. "I get this look of horror. But there is a peel for every skin type, there is a low risk of adverse effects, and any woman, at any age, can have one."
This very variety is what leads to the confusion that still surrounds skin peels. Fortunately, the principle behind all of them is simple: The acid strips away layers of skin, eliminating old, damaged cells and promoting collagen production in the process. Mild peels, the kind you might do yourself or get at a spa, remove just the dead cells on the surface. Deeper ones, performed by a doctor, penetrate the dermis to address wrinkles, stubborn age spots, and mild acne scars. So far, so good. But for the finer points of what to ask for—and whom to trust—we turned to the country's top dermatologists to really go beneath the surface.
Q: Do over-the-counter peels really do anything?
A home peel is like a glass of wine after a hard day: It won't solve your problems, but it will make everything seem better. They work essentially the same way a peel from a doctor or facialist does; the difference is how deep the acid penetrates. "They're great for mild exfoliation, especially if you're not exfoliating in your daily routine," says Amy B. Lewis, clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Yale University School of Medicine. "They unclog pores and make your skin feel smoother and look brighter." Test any home peel first on your inner arm (stinging is fine; burning isn't). Once you find one you like, "you can use it two or three times a week," says Susan Weinkle, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of South Florida. The effects of a peel should last for a few days.
Q: How do I know if a home peel is the right strength?
It should contain at least 10 percent acid in order to be effective. However, it's not easy to suss out the concentration of acid in any given peel, since cosmetics companies aren't required to list the amounts of ingredients on the product label. Some do, such as the L'Oreal ReNoviste Anti-Aging Glycolic Peel (10 percent). And others will tell persistent magazine editors—so we can pass along that Avon Anew Clinical Advanced Retexturizing Peel has 10 percent glycolic acid.
Q: A mild peel from my dermatologist costs $250, but my facialist only charges $75. Would I be crazy to get a peel from a facialist?
Not at all. Depending on state regulations, facialists are allowed to use only low concentrations of acid, usually between 20 and 40 percent—so you should be safe. This level of peel will leave skin exfoliated and taut, and can help soften very fine lines. Some aestheticians may promise their peels will erase wrinkles and brown spots, but dermatologists say that to treat those, you have to go to a doctor who can use a much stronger acid solution.
If you're worried about irritation, stick to lower-concentration peels, particularly at first. And whatever you choose, make sure that the aesthetician performing your peel is licensed. It's a good idea to ask to see her credentials. Inquire about her experience, too. She should ask you certain questions, namely what you regularly use on your skin and what medications you take, since both can influence how the acid penetrates. If she doesn't ask—and can't answer any of your questions—tell her you've changed your mind and walk out the door.
Q: My dermatologist says I should get a whole package of peels, not just one. Is that really necessary?
Some dermatologists suggest a series of about six peels, followed by a maintenance peel every four months. This is because each peel can go a little deeper, addressing more fine lines and discoloration, if performed before a layer of dead skin cells has had a chance to build up again. At a spa, peels are probably too mild to achieve that cumulative effect. Still, booking a block of peels may get you a better deal.
Q: My spa offers a so-called lunchtime peel—but can I really go to a meeting a few hours later?
Common sense says to avoid any new treatments if you have to look your best afterward. That said, most women are fine after a mild peel. Skin may be flushed for a few hours, but it's OK to apply makeup right away. And despite the name, most spa peels are not strong enough to cause real peeling. "It's a micropeeling process," says
Doris Day, clinical assistant professor of dermatology at New York University School of Medicine. "You don't actually see your skin sloughing off." Even a doctor's lunchtime version won't cause anything worse than minor irritation and a little dryness and flaking.
Q: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, fruit acid—how do I decide which one to use?
Those are all alpha hydroxy acids, and there absolutely are differences among them. Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule, so it penetrates the skin faster and goes deeper than other acids. This makes it the most effective—and therefore the most prevalent—of the acids in chemical peels, but it also means it has the most potential to irritate. Lactic acid is gentler and has the added benefit of hydrating dry skin. "As it removes that top layer of cells, lactic acid draws moisture into the skin," says Great Neck, New York, dermatologist Jeannette Graf. Fruit acids, which are used almost exclusively by facialists, are by far the gentlest of the acids and have the least potential to irritate the skin.
For women with acne, dermatologists often recommend trying a beta hydroxy peel. "Beta hydroxies are better at dissolving oil," Graf says. Salicylic acid, the most common beta hydroxy, will penetrate clogged pores without irritating already inflamed skin.
Q: I'm 25. Would a peel be a total waste of time for me?
It depends. If you're in your early 20s, you don't smoke, and you've been assiduous about applying sunscreen, you probably don't need to bother. But mild peels are ideal for women in their 20s and beyond who have some sun damage—or know they will soon pay for those spring breaks in high school. Peels can help remove any sun-damaged tissue.
Q: I’ve been using Retin-A for years—can I get a peel?
Yes, though it's crucial to tell your doctor or facialist if you're using any retinoid (including retinol). She'll probably tell you to lay off it for at least three days prior to the peel. Retinoids remove the top layer of the epidermis, which will increase the absorption of any acid that's applied. "We can use that to our advantage," says Fusco, "but it can change the amount of time you leave the peel on." The good news is that a peel can boost the effectiveness of medications, including Retin-A. Afterward, the outer layer of dead skin is gone, so moisturizers and medications penetrate deeper "until that outer layer of dead cells builds back up," Weinkle says. Depending on the strength of the peel, that effect can last from a few days to a few months.
Q: I have lots of dark brown spots from sun exposure, but I don't want one of those extreme peels that turns your face into a scab. Can I get a series of mild ones instead?
You probably need a medium peel, which goes to the middle layers of the skin to treat dark spots or wrinkles. "No matter how many lighter peels you do, they won't equal a medium peel," says Day. And despite their name, medium peels—which cost between $500 and $1,000—are anything but moderate. After numbing the surface of the skin, a doctor will apply a 35 to 50 percent concentration of trichlo-roacetic acid (TCA). Because this acid penetrates the dermis—the living tissue of the face—the process can be so painful that many doctors prescribe Valium for before and painkillers for afterward, and patients will need seven to ten days to recover. Skin will be red and tight until scabs form. These will then fall off, and skin will be pink and in need of extra sun protection for several weeks.
Many doctors are wary of medium peels because they can go seriously awry if not performed well, so make sure that your dermatologist has done a number of TCA peels before you book one. But as bad as this all sounds, plenty of women continue to choose medium peels because they have such a transformative effect. Though they require a time commitment of two weeks, they can erase years of significant sun damage—including pre-cancerous growths.
Q: Are peels going to exist in ten years? All my doctor talks about are lasers.
Yes. "Mild peels are quick and effective," Graf says. That said, some patients are choosing fractional laser treatments in place of a medium peel. "Everyone wants to go deeper with less recovery time," says Lawrence Bass, codirector of the Center for Minimally Invasive Plastic Surgery at the New York University School of Medicine. Instead of removing an entire layer of skin, fractional lasers—like the Fraxel—zap pinpointed spots and leave the surrounding tissue undamaged, which helps the affected skin heal faster. Patients often have swelling and redness for three days, though deeper treatments may cause blistering. The catch? It takes two to five sessions for an effect similar to that of one medium peel—at $1,000 to $1,500 a pop. "Adopting the Fraxel increased the number of medium peels I do," Bass says. "People listen to their options and decide, 'I want to do it just once.'"
3. Physiology of the skin
Acne vulgaris
The pathogenesis of acne vulgaris is characterized by tour factors. Follicular epidermal hyperproliteration is the first and is associated with subsequent follicular plugging. Next is k the overproduction of sebum, with the third factor being the anaerobic bacteria Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), which is (associated with the fourth factor, inflammation. The esthetician needs to appreciate these and know how to contend with each.
Epidermal hyper proliferation. Starting with the formation of adrenal androgen before puberty, the sebaceous follicle is triggered to proliferate and is followed by the plugging of the follicle. It is believed that the adrenal hormone dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) is the cause of this early manifestation of acne because the appearance of comedones is first noticed during this time. It requires the presence of androgen receptors in the follicle to form a comedone, since those individuals who lack these androgen receptors or who have poorly functioning androgen receptors do not get acne.
Sebum overproduction. The second factor, the verproduction of sebum, is also related to the action of androgens. For some reason, linoleic acid is low in the follicles of people with acne, while in those mostly acne-free, it is normal. As a result of excess sebum, acneic skin tends to be oily and appear shiny.
P. acnes and inflammation. The third factor, the presence of P. acnes, is also related to the fourth factor, inflammation. Oddly, P. acnes is rarely seen in early acne lesions—the microcomedo—and is generally not found until later. Keep in mind that this organism is anaerobic and resides deep in the follicle, away from atmospheric oxygen, which it does not like. It is the P. acnes that is responsible for the inflammation seen in acne, the papule and the pustule, as well as the cyst in cystic acne. As with many bacteria, P. acnes produces mediators of inflammation that start the cascade of inflammation propagated by white blood cells, the leukocytes.
Here is a new term for you to remember: the toll-like receptor. This is a primitive defense receptor on monocytes and neutrophiles (two kinds of white cells), which, when activated, leads the cell to produce cytokines, such as Interleuken 12 (IL-12), IL-8 and tumor necrosis factor (TNF). In addition, IL-la is also present and may be a contributing factor. Now, if you are not familiar with cytokines, you might say, "So what?
Briefly, cytokines are special signaling proteins and proteins linked with sugars called glycoproteins. They are very much like hormones that are able to provide signals to other cells by cellular communication. Cytokines are a diverse class of compounds arising from many origins and having multiple functions. Both blood cells and nonblood cells can produce them, and their effects can be felt by cells nearby and throughout the body. Mainly, they are a response to trouble, but they often produce more trouble. The body could not exist without them.
In summary, inflammation in acne is mainly the result of P. acnes and the cytokines they evoke from white blood cells. Along with the other factors, the acne follicle is a roaring source of inflammation.
Oxygen in acne treatment
Every effective therapy treats the causes of the disease. When looking at the causes of acute acne, the presence of P. acnes stands out as a major factor in the formation of pimples or cysts. It is important for the esthetician to understand just what is happening when oxygen is being delivered to the skin. See Figure 1.
Diffusion of atmospheric oxygen. The excellent work of Strucker, et al1 shows that the needs of the epidermis can be supplied with oxygen from the atmosphere through a diffusion process. The epidermis, however, needs additional oxygen, which is supplied by the capillaries. The skin uses oxygen to kill bacteria, to supply energy to the cells, to reduce swelling, to stimulate fibroblast activity, to inhibit lipid peroxidation and to initiate new blood vessel production. It is unknown how these actions occur, but it has been identified through experience with medical hyperbaric oxygen that they do occur. By using wet oxygen—either mist-laden or in a solution— you are able to get effective levels of oxygen into the hair follicle, deep enough to reach the sebaceous gland. This is the No. 1 reason for using topical oxygen for acne.
Bacterial kill mechanism. It is most likely that a free radical reaction occurs at the cell surface of the bacteria. Oxygen can form very reactive by-products, such as hydrogen peroxide and superoxide, when they enter a cell. The targets of the reactive oxygen species (ROS) are protein and DNA, which denatures both these compounds. It is not fully known what the antimicrobial mechanisms of oxygen are, but some of these processes are understood. For example, the cell envelopes of bacteria consist of polysaccharides (complex sugars) and proteins. Some bacteria have a lot of complex lipids in their membranes, including glycolipids and lipopolysaccharides.
Oxygen reacts with the lipid layer in cellular membranes, usually forming hydroperoxides and a lot of other nasty-but-active germ-killing compounds. Net result: Oxygen breaks the bacterial cell envelope by lipid peroxidation. So basically, oxygen has effectively punched holes in the cell's membrane, causing the bacteria's nucleic acids and other critical compounds to exit the cell, thereby killing the bacteria. Besides this method, oxygen kills bacterial pathogens disrupting the system that creates the cell's energy, as well as crippling the critical proteins manufacturing systems. See Figure 2.
Treating acne with oxygen. The current acne treatment regimen used should continue and the oxygen treatment should be adjusted according to the acne's severity. In severe noncystic acne, use oxygen therapy three times a week for the first week.
During the second week, reduce to two treatments administered at least 2-4 days apart. On the third week and subsequent weeks, oxygen used once a week should produce good and lasting results. Have the client return in a month to check for comedones, both open and closed. As you are well aware, acne is a recurrent disease and those experiencing it should be followed up with regularly, often beyond the teen years. Acne and ignorance are the scourges of youth.
There are only two methods of oxygen application that I recommend and both use wet oxygen. The nebulizer format allows estheticians to use additional agents during the application, such as essential oils or plant extracts. The other form is oxygen generated in situ — that is, on the skin — and can be effectively used in a treatment lasting less than 10 minutes. Both or these systems are commercially available. Whatever system you use, make sure you understand it, and follow the directions of the supplier.
Rosacea
Of all the many diseases of obscure etiology, rosacea should rank near the top of the list. It is known that a lot of people have rosacea—an estimated 13-14 million in the United States. It occurs most frequently in people ranging from 30-50 years of age and is found primarily in fair-skinned people with northern European ancestry. Women, tor some reason, are affected about two to three times more often than men. Rosacea is characterized by a persistent erythema of the face tor a duration of at least three months. Diagnostic signs include flushing, papules, pustules, telangiectasias, edema, plaques, a dry appearance, ocular manifestations and phymatous changes. Symptoms include burning and stinging. A major finding is central facial flushing, often accompanied by burning or stinging. Patients generally have finely textured skin, although the face may appear rough and scaly, suggesting a low-grade dermatitis. Known triggers to flushing include emotional stress, alcohol, spicy foods, exercise, cold or hot weather, hot drinks, and hot baths and showers. Rosacea patients frequently have sensitive skin and may reel pain with many products, even when they are gently applied to the skin.
A present controversy is the concurrent existence of acne and rosacea. As a rule, no comedones are seen in rosacea. My personal opinion is that acne is a separate disease from rosacea. I base this on the tact that rosacea is characterized histopathologically with the appearance otperivascular infiltration. This would suggest some basic vascular pathology, which is to say, it covers a lot of area, but it presents a clue or starting point. Why do only men get rhinophyma with rosacea? Studies have shown possible associations between rosacea and the race mite Demodex folliculorum and Helicobacterfylori infection.
Treating rosacea with oxygen. Treatment by the medical profession for rosacea is essentially an attack with antimicrobial agents, but for more resistant cases, physicians use surgery, dermabrasion, laser and more recently, intense pulsed light (I PL). The esthetician has limited use of these modalities, but there are still effective treatment methods available. Since there appears to be a bacterial component to rosacea, an antimicrobial product should be used along with an anti-inflammatory. You have your choice of many anti-inflammatory agents, both natural and synthetic. Bioflavanoids and other polyphenols from green tea are effective. Consider also bisabolol from the plant chamomile. One very powerful antioxidant found in pomegranate is ellagic acid, with a great many other positive properties, such as an antipcroxidant, antiseptic, antibacterial, astringent, antifungal, antiyeast, and it is a sunscreen, as well, when added at 0.5%.
Topical oxygen should be applied in a wet form, carefully following the directions of the manufacturer. When you see the skin blanch, you know you have reached the top of the dermis with your oxygen treatment. At the same time, you will have killed many of the superficial and deep-surface bacteria, and probably killed the demodex, or else made them very unhappy.
The treatment program for rosacea should follow an initial three treatments the first week, two the second week and one the third week. Depending on the improvement, scheduling of the subsequent treatments can vary from biweekly to monthly. As the reader is well aware, rosacea clients do not all respond the same, so adjust your treatment to meet the needs of a particular client.
Aging skin
Aging remains a major topic in science because, even today, the process isn't fully understood. It is known, for example, that tissues and cells undergo damage, that a person's DN A may also be damaged, and that a lot of systems do not work as well at age 50 as they do at age 20. There are many questions, but few answers, although a great deal has been learned during the past few years about some important aspects of aging that can be translated into skin care. Energy and living are forever linked, and so is the aging process. Having adequate energy for every organ is essential for the normal function of each organ, and that means each cell must have a good supply of energy. The skin is one organ that almost always comes off on the short end of the metabolic stick.
Waste products accumulate in the skin, its blood and nutrients are shunted to other organs in emergency situations, and nasty metabolic by-products are frequently sent to the skin to be neutralized. The sun and cold are not the skin's friends, nor are harsh detergents and soaps. Next to the stomach, the skin is the most abused organ in the body. The skin can be helped, however, if enough energy is supplied to it, and that is one thing oxygen therapy can do.
The mitochondria. Tremendous strides in the information known about mitochondria have been made during the past 30 years. They are the major energy source for the cell and are damaged rather easily because they do not have adequate repair mechanisms. In a previous article, mitochondria were discussed, as well as how they produce ATP. Every movement or thought, and most chemical reactions that occur in the body, require ATP. In fact, so much ATP is used by the body that each day, it makes and uses about 80 pounds of it. Staggering! Oxygen is critical to the process of generating ATP.
Aging skin features a decrease in circulation, metabolic activity, ATP production and a sluggish immune system. The skin is also insulted daily with free radicals, both inside and outside the body. Any treatment or aging skin should begin with an adequate antioxidant regimen. A good, glycation-free diet with a modest caloric intake can prevent many unnecessary hospital days.
Treating aging skin with oxygen. Oxygen can be used as an adjunct treatment in your skin care anti-aging program. Remember to always use wet oxvgcn.
Include in your aging skin treatment program three oxygen treatments during the first week, and a series of three treatments the next week. During this time, you could use one enzyme peel each week tor the first two weeks. During the third week, look tor changes in texture, color and fine lines. The third week, give two more oxygen treatments—although the timing is not critical, they should be two to three days apart, but do not administer them back to back. After the third week, you can adjust your treatments to once a week or alternate weeks for six to eight weeks, depending on the condition of the clients skin.
Look at two parameters in order to evaluate wrinkles. How deep are they? Even one or two deep wrinkles suggests a great deal of damage to the dermis. Little wrinkles will hold a thread; moderate wrinkles will hold a string; severe wrinkles are deeper and wider than the wire in a coat hanger.
How long are they? Except for the nasolabial told and the labiomental told, wrinkles that measure longer than an inch are really bad. These wrinkles reveal that there is a great deal of dermal damage and will most likely fail to respond to anything other than deep surgical peels.
Oxygen and the skin
Oxygen revitalizes the epidermis and stimulates cellular growth by increasing cellular proliferation. It will kill surface bacteria, deep anaerobic bacteria and fungus. Oxygen will supply energy to the epidermis and to the dermis, helping to heal any small wounds and irritations. In the dermis, it will help produce collagen and clastin and help restructure the extracellular matrix. Oxygen is a micronutrient and it will assist with many metabolic processes in the skin. Lastly, it is critical for many enzyme reactions, and the presence of oxygen can often accelerate these reactions.
How often can you use oxygen therapy? The cost of the treatment must be considered, but the client is the most important factor. Remember that using oxygen is an art. You must know how to use it. It a company tries to sell you an oxygen treatment without adequate education or instruction, steer clear of it. You will begin to see oxygen used more often in esthetics within the next few years, and perhaps in combination with other treatment systems.
